Sitting at the water’s edge, the serene Lugger Hotel is a former smugglers’ inn on Cornwall’s verdant Roseland Peninsula. The whitewashed 17th-century building is now home to a traditional Cornish restaurant, peaceful spa and 22 rooms, plus two character-filled holiday cottages. Soak up the atmosphere from a fireside alcove or admire the building from the terrace, with a jam and cream-topped scone, of course.
Order the expertly made seven-course tasting menu with local delicacies, including game, shellfish, lobster and crab, before retreating up the quaint, narrow stairs to bed. Bedrooms here have a New England vibe, with overstuffed cream sofas, chic white furniture and views across the sea. For a truly romantic experience, stay at the Hideaway, which is positioned just across the slipway and offers views across the sheltered waters of Portloe Harbour.
Take a bracing early-morning swim from the old stone jetty, before wrapping up in a towel, shaking the sand from your shoes and tucking into a hearty buffet breakfast. Afterwards, amble up the hill towards the coast path, where you’ll have far-reaching views across the water to Caerhays. Sandwiched between two cliffs and piled high with lobster pots, Portloe Harbour and its surrounds provide a charming, yet unspoilt Cornish retreat.